The History of He'e Nalu

The Cultural Significance of Surfing in Hawai'i

“Angelo, this is for little rubber people who don't shave yet." This quote — from a critically acclaimed 1991 film about a gang of highly motivated bank robbers in President Nixon masks being pursued by a young quarterback punk FBI agent and his partner, who loves meatball sandwiches — refers to surfing. But that statement is factually incorrect. We hope you share the view that while the film itself sounds interesting, surfing is truly for everyone, not just for little rubber people, and it doesn’t cost much. Certainly, not so much that anyone would need to rob banks to enjoy it. Like most spiritual practices, it costs almost nothing. And yes, surfing is genuinely a spiritual practice. One that started over a thousand years ago, and as you’ve likely guessed, that’s where we’ll begin our journey into the roots, history, and significance of surfing.

Disclaimer: This feature is about actual surfing and has nothing to do with the Internet. Thank you for understanding.

Ancient Beginnings: Surfing’s Spiritual and Cultural Roots

Over a thousand years ago, Polynesian settlers arrived in the Hawaiian Islands. These early voyagers, as Moana would call them, brought an intricate relationship with the ocean and a deep understanding of the sea's power. For them, the ocean wasn’t just a means of survival — it was a sacred force, and surfing was a way to connect with and honor that power. The waves were not simply seen as physical phenomena; they were believed to be inhabited by gods and spirits. The earliest Hawaiian settlers, deeply attuned to nature, viewed the ocean as a living, breathing entity that required respect.

The term he’e nalu translates to “wave sliding,” and this practice became central to Hawaiian identity. While certain gym coaches from a thousand years ago might call surfing a “recreational activity,” getting out there was considered a deeply spiritual act for many Hawaiians. Those in touch thought the ocean was the domain of Kanaloa, the god of the sea. Riding waves allowed them to harness the mana, or spiritual energy, of the ocean and connect with divine forces.

Social and Cultural Context

In ancient Hawai'i, surfing was a recreational activity and a practice steeped in social and cultural importance. Surfing was a communal activity, often bringing together people from various classes and backgrounds, though it was particularly associated with the elite Hawaiian chiefs, known as aliʻi. The aliʻi were often the most skilled surfers, and their prowess in the surf was seen as a reflection of their leadership and strength. Surfing was also a way to assert one’s rank within society. Chiefs would compete in surfing contests, demonstrating their abilities not only on the water but in their strength and connection to nature.

Stupid Humans Tried to Kill Surfing

With the arrival of Western missionaries in the 19th century, many traditional Hawaiian practices, including surfing, were discouraged and even banned. Boo to imperialism. The missionaries viewed surfing as a pagan activity, and under colonial rule, much of Hawai’i's cultural heritage, including the art of surfing, was pushed to the margins. Surfing, once integral to Hawaiian life, began to fade from mainstream practice.

Smart Humans Grow the Tree of Surfing Globally 

While the early origins of surfing were community-based and collective, a few key figures helped preserve and propagate the traditions of surfing in Hawai’i, especially as the sport faced decline during Western colonization.

Duke Kahanamoku

While Duke is often celebrated for popularizing surfing globally, his influence began with his deep roots in Hawaiian surfing traditions. A champion swimmer, Duke played a crucial role in bringing surfing to the world's attention during the early 20th century. Born and raised in Hawai’i, he was a master surfer who helped preserve the sacred tradition of surfing. As he traveled internationally, he showcased the Hawaiian way of surfing, sparking a global fascination with the sport while also honoring its Hawaiian roots. His contributions allowed the foundations of surfing to reach the shores of California, Australia, and beyond. He was regular-footed. Alright, alright, alright.

George Freeth

Often called the “father of California surfing,” Freeth, born in Hawai’i, is credited with introducing the sport to the US mainland. As a Hawaiian-born surfer, Freeth embodied the spirit of Hawaiian surfing in his efforts to spread the sport’s traditions, helping to revive interest in it during the early 1900s. His role was vital in translating the spiritual and cultural significance of surfing to a broader audience. Freeth is also responsible for many of the volunteer lifeguard programs we know on the public beaches today, having saved countless lives working as a lifeguard during his time.

King David Kalākaua

Known as the “Merrie Monarch,” King Kalākaua played a significant role in the revival of surfing during the late 19th century. He was a vocal advocate for restoring Hawaiian cultural practices, including surfing. Under his reign, there was a resurgence of interest in traditional Hawaiian sports and arts, and he was instrumental in ensuring that surfing would remain a part of Hawaiian heritage, even as Western influence sought to suppress it.

The Enduring Roots of Surfing

Today, everyone has an opinion, but the roots of surfing are undeniable. Hawai’i remains deeply intertwined with the culture, spirituality, and traditions of the islands’ earliest people. The connection to the ocean, respect for the waves, and communal nature of surfing continue to be central to the practice. While the types of boards, commercialization, and Academy Award-winning acting in films like Point Break have evolved and changed surfing over the years, the spiritual and cultural foundations of surfing in Hawai’i are more crucial than ever to the community.

The figures who helped preserve and spread surfing, from Duke Kahanamoku to King Kalākaua, have ensured that the roots of surfing remain firmly planted in Hawaiian culture. Today, surfers around the world honor these roots, reflecting the deep connection between humanity and the natural world that the ancient Hawaiians celebrated. Utah, get me two.